… that the tall, straight trees with huge leaves and beautiful violet blossoms that we see beside the Gata road and in several other sites in Jávea are called “Paulownia” ?
This tree was named in honour of the 18th century Grand Duchess Anna Pavlovna of Russia, Queen consort of the Netherlands. Although it is native to China, Laos and Vietnam, Paulownia has long been commercially cultivated in Korea and Japan. It is known in English as the Empress tree, Princess Tree, Sapphire Princess, Sapphire Dragon and Foxglove tree. Several species and hybrids of Paulownia have been introduced to Spain in recent years. It is said to be the fastest-growing hardwood tree, being harvested after 8 years. After harvesting, new trees sprout from the roots. It can be trained to grow tall and straight without knots and produces a wood known as “kiri”. This is fine-grained and very light, but also strong and ideal for the manufacture of many items such as lightweight furniture, guitars, surf boards, skis, boxes and even bee-hives. It is resistant to pests and is fire resistant up to 400ºC. Its foliage can be used for animal feed or biofuels and its flowers attract honey bees. In short, it could become a very valuable crop. Xàbia’s agricultural landscape has changed many times over its long history and one day the fragrance of Paulownia flowers may replace the perfume of the orange blossom we smell today.
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The Castle of Ocaive is located to the south-west of the town of Pedreguer, within its municipal area, on top of a crag at the foot of the "muntanya gran" a place with an important natural defence. It features an impressive vertical wall on the north and west faces. Although The site was occupied during the Bronze Age and Iberian period, the architectural structures found at its highest point date from Medieval times (13th-14th centuries). These consist of the remains of a quadrangular tower with a vaulted base and several rooms. On a lower level towards the east, there are the remains of a large rectangular cistern, built on the edge of the “albacar” (lower enclosure) from the Islamic period (12th-13th centuries).The views from the castle are impressive, showing its strategic location for the control of the territory. The castle of l´Ocaive (or Olocaiba in medieval documents) was the central element of a castral district that comprised approximately the current district of Pedreguer and part of that of Gata de Gorgos, in which there were several farmhouses that depended on the fortification for military and administrative purposes.
Archaeological excavations were carried out in 2018 and 2019. Subsequently some of the architectural structures were consolidated and restored. All These works have been possible thanks to investment by the Pedreguer Town Council and a grant from the ERDF Operational Programme 2014-2020 (2018/8193), of the European Union. In the second half of the 19th century, economic activity in Xàbia and the Marina Alta centred mainly on the production and export of raisins. The situation changed with the advent of the 20th century. In the early years of the new century, the Phylloxera plague spread throughout the region and the raisin sector went into crisis. At that time, part of the local population was forced to emigrate to Algeria in order to find work. There, in that region of North Africa, the men from the Marina Alta worked mainly in the fields while the women were principally employed as wet nurses and child minders.
Economic reasons were not the only motivations for emigration to Algeria. As the Spanish Civil War neared its end, hundreds of people were forced to flee to the then French colony because of their political ideas. Despite political and racial tensions, Christians and Muslims, French, Valencians and Algerians lived side by side in Algeria. This ethnic mix gave rise to a peculiar language, the patuet. This language had words referring to food, clothing and work relating to the countryside. Some of these words such as "sicató" (pruning shears) have survived to the present day thanks to the people who returned to the Marina Alta following the independence of the North African country in 1962.
Most of the windmills in the Valencian region were built in the Marina Alta. There have been windmills in our region since medieval times, possibly even during the Andalusian period. The largest concentration of windmills is in the area around Montgó, Xàbia, with 12 mills, Gata with 3, Pedreguer with 2 and Dénia, with 5.
The three mills of Jesús Pobre, a district of Dénia (now designated with the curious name of an EATIM: (entidad de ámbito territorial inferior al municipio - Territorial entity inferior to the municipality) are on the top of a small hill, 155 metres high, one kilometre south-west of the village. The three mills were in operation in the second half of the 18th century, which is when they were probably built. They maintain the characteristics of other mills in the Marina Alta. Two floors, with a single entrance door (open to the south-west), an upper floor supported by a rough tosca stone vault, (where the millstones and machinery were located) ventilated and illuminated by two opposing windows. Access to the grinding wheel room was via a staircase with stone steps attached to the inside wall of the building. There were also four sails and a mobile conical roof. Time and neglect have led to the disappearance of many of these elements, leaving only the robust cylindrical structure of masonry, built with irregular limestone blocks and lime mortar. AMUX visited these windmills on April 17th ... a centuries-old tradition in the Valencian and Catalan regions? It is possible that the name harks back to the Arabic word „muna“ in the 15th century, a provision or gift, that was paid in kind as a land tax. Here in Xabia, until not long ago, it was made in each household during the Easter Week. The ladies would knead and knead the dough until it had the right consistency and then it would be laid to rest under a multitude of covers and blankets in the matrimonial bed - for many hours, so that the fermented dough would double in size. Once ready, the monas would be taken to one of the 5 or 6 large ovens that were in Javea, since the oven at home was too small to hold all the monas. The tradition is that this was always gifted - hence the name - by the godparents or the grandparents to the children. In Xabia, they always gave the children a pair of „zapatillas“ as well, flat rubber-soled shoes used for sports, that were usually bought at the La Rulla shoe shop. Easter was celebrated for at least 3 days (Sunday, Monday and Tuesday ). Family and friends would celebrate it by spending the morning in their „ casita de campo“ and in the evening all would go to the beach for a picnic with the monas. They would carry these in a small basket that the grandparents gave them. These were handcrafted baskets made at home from esparto grass or palm leaves. At the beach the children would play games, hop with skipping ropes, toss spinning tops and light fireworks. I remember that the most beautiful mona was always taken as a present to a family in mourning for the recent loss of a family member ( for it was frowned upon to make monas while in mourning). A gesture of solidarity towards family and friends ! Happy Easter to all! We had intended to organise an excursion to the windmills at Jesus Pobre this month. However, the Covid 19 situation has rapidly worsened and the committee has regretfully decided to cancel all AMUX activities for the time being.
This means we cannot yet set a date for our Annual General Meeting. The Committee will meet virtually in February to assess the situation and decide on a course of action. In the meantime, we will try to keep you updated with archaeological and museum news through Facebook and our blog. https://www.facebook.com/AmicsDelMuseuDeXabia http://amuxabia.weebly.com/ AMUX is also on Twitter: @Amuxabia We wish you all health, safety and a brighter tomorrow as we endure this difficult period of world history. AMUX Committee
On November 21st, eleven members of AMUX hiked in the Parque Forestal de la Granadella guided by Ximo Bolufer, Director of the Soler Blasco Museum of Xàbia.
We walked in two groups, leaving the Cala de la Granadella up the dry water course of the Barranc de Martorell. Ximo explained that three major water courses and several other smaller ones converged on the Granadella cove. After about 600m, we turned left to go up a footpath known as the “Gurugú”, since it passes close the top of the Gurugú peak. The name “Gurugú” has an origin in the Berber language and is found in several places in the region. The most famous is Monte Gurugú in Morocco, which was the site of an important battle between local insurgents and Spanish troops during the Rif war in July 1909; Monte Gurugú in Alcalá de Henares, Madrid is said to be where the Spanish cavalry who took part in the war were trained; However, Monte Gurugú in La Granadella does not have such a colourful history, and is just a modest hill some 151m above sea level. We looked back to see the site of the “Les Teuleries de Baix” next to a private house. Here, they used to manufacture roof tiles and bricks for local use. Deposits of suitable clay were found in a nearby stream-bed and there was abundant wood in the area – a vital resource to keep the firing kilns burning. There is also evidence of some ochre mining (yellow and red iron-bearing rock) which was used as a pigment. Looking around, we could see numerous abandoned agricultural terraces. Ximo explained that the soil in La Granadella was of poor quality, and therefore the area had never been densely settled nor farmed intensively. However, subsistence farming took place on these terraces until the 1960’s with crops such as carob, vines, legumes and cereals. Interestingly the farmers were from Benitatxell, not Xàbia. Most of the land now belonged to the Xàbia Town Hall. Although some plots are privately owned, no development is allowed, since the 750 hectare area is fully protected as a LIC (Lugar de Importancia Comunitario) known as the Penyassegats de la Marina. We saw stands of esparto grass (Stima tenacissima) which was used to make rope, baskets and sandals (espadrilles) and a small agricultural hut (casup) with its attendant well. Looking down into the valley of the Barranc de Martorell we saw the ruins of an old farmhouse beneath the cliffs where they once made honey. Ximo pointed out other interesting features such as “check dams” – small dams of stones across water courses, designed to slow torrential flow during the rains as well as a hill overlooking the sea where remains of a look-out from Islamic times have been found. There was also a small, isolated farmhouse in which a leper from Benitatxell had lived. Each day, someone would come to bring food to this unfortunate quarantined man (We felt a particular sympathy with him during these moderns days of Covid!). It is likely this leper would have gone to the leprosarium in Fontilles following its opening in 1909. Finally, before returning to our cars, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the Cala de la Granadella, noting the Torre de Ambolo, the Illa del Decubridor and the Cova del Llop Marí. We regret to announce the death of Michael Stephenson, whose donations of plans and photographs of the castles of La Marina Alta initiated the AMUX exhibition on Islamic Castles. He passed away on Friday, October 16. AMUX sends its condolences to his family and friends. We remain indebted to him for his donation and cooperation.
A unique collection of castle plans AMUX visits the memorial of the “Fosa de l’Avenc de Xàbia” and restored lime kilns on La Plana9/10/2020
On Saturday, October 3rd, 26 members and friends of AMUX strolled along Xàbia’s La Plana to visit the memorial built over the “avenc” (sink hole / pothole) on the Cape of San Antonio, and then to see the restored lime kilns of the Faroleres and la Plana. Our guide was Joaquim Bolufer Marqués – Director of the Museum of Xàbia.
We first followed a footpath for about 100m to reached the avenc which is located beside a gulley near the top of La Plana. It is topped by a concrete plinth and a cross. This is both a mausoleum and the location of a terrible crime which took place during the height of the Spanish civil war on the night of November 2nd 1936. This was a time when fear, suspicion, hatred and a debased rule of law contributed to the night known as “la nit de l’Avenc”. Ximo explained that whole truth of what happened will never be known. It seems that a number of prisoners held in custody in Dénia were passed into the hands of an uncontrolled, left-wing extremist militia (reportedly consisting of 13 people). The prisoners were massacred (presumably shot) and their bodies thrown into the 67metre deep sinkhole. The number of people murdered is not clear, perhaps 21, or 17 or 15. One of them was said to have been badly wounded but alive when thrown into the hole. Quite a few people were killed in Dénia during this period, though not all of them were known to be active supporters of the Nationalist side. However they had wealth, privileged professions and livelihoods - for example clergy, factory owners, judges, lawyers, students and land-owners - which would have made them targets for hatred. The first monument was erected on the avenc in 1941. In 1953 the cavity was explored by cavers from Alcoi at the invitation of the town halls of Xàbia and Dénia. They found one almost complete body and large quantities of stone rubble. The bones were powdery and poorly preserved. In 1991 the mausoleum was modified to record the names of thirteen of the dead – a record of the last people to be murdered in the conflict. In 2013 the avenc was opened once more for the filming of a documentary promoted by the Xàbia museum. It is now an official “fossa” forming part of the inventory "fosa"s in the “Ley de Memoria Historica” Registry number Nº 2611/2015 ALIC. (Fosa: Place where human remains are buried, which for whatever reason, cannot be buried in their own grave) Leaving this sad place, we then re-parked our cars near the Monasterio de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles. Ximo described how this had once been the location of a 14th century Monastery of Saint Jeronimo. which was sacked by pirates in 1386. The monks subsequently abandoned the area and moved inland to establish the Monastery of Sant Jeroni de Cotalba (Alfauir) which stands to this day. The ruins of the original 14th century building on La Plana were destroyed during an “unfortunate” restoration in 1964. Our walk took us past the ruined quarters of the Carabinieros.This corps was in charge of controlling the coast to prevent smuggling during the 19th and early 20th centuries and eventually became incorporated into the Guardia Civil. (The building was bought by Xàbia Town Hall in 2017.) Finally we visited the restored lime kilns of the Faroleres and La Plana. Ximo described how the these had once been widespread and an integral part of rural life until the 1960s. The manufacture of quicklime involved baking small rocks of a particular type of limestone continuously at 800 – 1000 degrees C for almost three days. Workers called “calciners” had to keep the wood fire burning day and night, therefore a plentiful supply of firewood was needed. The final product, quicklime, was used to make lime mortar and whitewash, to waterproof water cisterns and as a disinfectant. AMUX pays a visit to the Punta de Moraira: Torre de Cap d'Or and excavation of Iberian/Roman remains20/9/2020
On Thursday 17th September, eight members and friends of AMUX had an exclusive guided tour of recent excavations of the Iberian settlement and the Torre de Cap d’Or on the Punta de Moraira. Our guide was archaeologist, Rubén Vidal Bertomeu, leader of the study. The excavation is part of a programme by the Teulada Town Hall to improve the site as a cultural and tourism resource. As such, they are improving the access path and creating viewing platforms along the way as well as improving access to the Cova de Cendres which is an important prehistoric site.
The excavated area is but a small portion of the whole settlement which covers about 5000m2 of the top of the cape. Its location has wonderful views over the harbour of Moraira and Penyon de Ifach to the south, as well as the steep cliffs to the north. This made it an ideal place for maritime control through the ages.
The Torre de Cap d’Or is presently covered in scaffolding and undergoing renovation. Rubén explained that this watch tower, which dominates the cape, was badly renovated in 1991, and they are now working to restore it to how it would have looked when it was built at the end of the 16th Century. Interestingly there was another tower there before, built in the mid 16th Century, but this was demolished by the very pirates it was trying to defend against. A hole excavated in the bottom of the current tower has revealed the wall of the original tower nested inside like a Russian doll.
The excavated part of Iberian site surrounding the tower may date back to 400-500 BCE but the whole area has been very much disturbed by agriculture and the building of terraces. One of the structures found was a relatively modern stone building with a chimney. However, the remains of older structures can be seen and include Roman remains from the times of the Punic wars (264-146 BCE) and Sertorian civil war (75 BCE). Rubén pointed out Roman walls constructed on the top of pre-existing Iberian ones; an area which could have been a living area in Iberian times, with evidence of an earth floor and hearth, as well
as a well preserved water cistern (aljibe) from that time. All the excavated structures will be preserved for visitors to see. The group from AMUX were then shown more defensive walls which had come to light outside the excavation area. These overlook the Portet beach towards the south. We also saw a vaulted 16th Century water cistern. There is much more still hidden, waiting for future archaeological campaigns. |
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